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| 3ds Max Wish List Post your Autodesk 3ds Max Wish List items here as they relate to architectural visualization workflows. |
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#11 (permalink) | ||
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: san francisco
Posts: 2,770
Name: travis schmiesing |
Quote:
....i am not sure that you can for physical correctness since our eye adjusts depending on the condition also. it makes it hard to say what is physically correct. i would say that beauty and photographic correctness should be paired together. Quote:
Yes, hard drive space is cheap. We have about 200 people in our office, the majority on Revit, and several people rendering. Hard Drive space seems to go really fast, and I often have a couple of gigs of undeleted EXR's on the server, so I was trying to move away from them.
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travis schmiesing |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
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yep i'm with you now, i guess i've been doing that anyway, i've never really setup multiple cameras in one scene (camera in each room)
i usually just setup my light and position it where i want, and then adjust my exposure until the light levels look right. i guess this is what you are doing just in the same scene. i have one more question (well probably more than one - but we'll get to them later i have been using my digital camera to help me when it comes to exposure, it has a lot of built in presets for different scenarios, eg, moving water, sports, day, night, portrait, fireworks etc. i was switching between the different presets to help me get exposure right, but when i check the settings on each one, the f-stop seems to be set at 2.8 regardless of which setting i choose, it only seems to be the ISO and shutter speed changing for each preset?? surely the f-stop will change aswell????? but then again i have heard that i can leave the shutter and ISO at the same value and then just alter the f-stop???? and then i've heard i can adjust all three?? once again i'm confused with regards to my digital camera, the setting of f2.8 means my aperture is open quite wide therefore letting a lot of light in. but i also read that the lower the f-stop number then the blurrier the image will be, unless compensated for with the other values? |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: san francisco
Posts: 2,770
Name: travis schmiesing |
I will allow someone with more knowledge than myself answer the actual camera questions. I know there are several enthusiasts on this board.
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travis schmiesing |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: san francisco
Posts: 2,770
Name: travis schmiesing |
Quote:
i have had one model where i shot somewhere in the neighborhood of 70 exterior images. usually it is only a a handful of shots, but there has been more.
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travis schmiesing |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
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cool so all my hard research hasn't gone to waste haha how do we move this thread to a different topic (as its now more of a mental ray thread rather than wishlist) i think this could become quite a useful thread if we keep it up.
i'm going to make a few quick tests tomorrow using the dwayne ellis bathroom scene, i'm going leave the exposure settings i have at the minute, and then adjust time of day and rotate compass etc to see how the final renders look, i've never really tested it i guess. when you say you change the xposure controls for different views, would it be things like altering burn amounts for scenes where light hits walls and then where it doesn't etc, or are you talking about actual aperture, shutter and iso?? or are you talking about all of them as a whole??? |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Greater Manchester
Age: 42
Posts: 393
Name: Brian Bradley |
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Would strongly recomend dusting the discs off and getting it installed!! For working with floating point files P/shop is pretty cruddy, at least CS2 was (not tried Cs3 but reports I have read indicate only marginal improvements) Combustion on the other hand has TONS of tools and options for working the image into just the look you want. Takes a bit of learning, but there are enough P/Shop similarities to make it do-able. Organize some dedicated Post production hard drive space and give it a go, sure you will be pleased with the extra flexibility you can get in some situations. Regards Bri
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3Ds Max - Mental Ray - VRay - Brazil Training Modules www.mentalboutmax.co.uk The MBM Blog www.mentalboutmax.blogspot.com Vray Learning Resource www.vrayelite.com |
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Moderator
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Quote:
The lower the f/stop the more light is let in, and the DEPTH OF FIELD is shorter. So, if you are shooting a photo of something that is very deep, or many of them, then some will be out of focus. The lenses on ..er.. less-than-higher-end digital cameras aren't the best in the world optics wise, and the electronics aren't that smart either. So if they make one variable ..er.. constant (i.e. keep the f/stop the same), then it'll help the camera figure out how to properly expose the scene. Also, the majority of 'fun pics' are taken in dark settings - night time fire works, pubs, clubs, etc - so it helps to have the f/stop cranked as open as you can. In the real world, the iris valve (f/stop) will open and close a whole lot. In the scene described above, the aperature would have been fairly open, but when he turned around it would have cranked closed a lot to stop most of the (excess) light from getting through. In a film camera, you'd never vary the ISO - it's set by the film manufacturer! ISO 64 = outdoor ISO 100 = outdoor ISO 200 = indoor/outdoor ISO 400 = indoor ISO 1600 = indoor, in a dark closet, taking a photo of an ice cube with the lights turned off Generally, I'd leave ISO alone (use the guide above), the shutter on 1/30 or 1/60 (1/30 is the de facto slowest you can go without a tripod or flash) and play with the f/stop. When you run "out" of f/stop, play with the shutter speed. Hope that helps. |
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